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Lace sample book.
Nottingham?, England, between 1920 and 1940?
Physical Description:
1 volume (98 pages) : approximately 130 lace samples ; 53 x 46 cm
Rare Books and Manuscripts
Folio B 2018 4
Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Fund
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Copyright Status:
Copyright Not Evaluated
Archives & Manuscripts
Bound in original brown paper covers, with linen spine. Tie attached to spine. Stamped in ink on front cover: "1642 to 1841."
Sample book of machine lace patterns, compiled by an unidentified manufacturer. The informal presentation of samples and the annotations accompanying them suggest that the volume was probably for internal use, as a record of information about each sample. Each page of the volume bears two stock numbers (from 1642 to 1841), printed with a stamp in black ink. Not every stock number is accompanied by a sample; some samples have clearly been removed, others may never have been present. Samples vary in size from about 3 x 10 cm to 15 x 40 cm.
The samples are varyingly annotated, in graphite. All include prices, in shillings and pence. Some are annotated with information about the cutting, stitch, and clearing. Stock no. 1655 (4 x 17 cm) is representative: "[price] -/3. Cutting: 1 1/2 per doz. Stitch: 5 per doz. Clearing: 1 1/2 per doz. 1655 is 1125 brassière, on double net, with 7 repeats of this lace, stitched on left side to make whole thing 40" long." The numbers associated with cutting, stitch, and clearing may be a reference to the time required to execute the work. Sample number 1731 has note "not stitched correctly," which may be further evidence that the volume was intended for internal use.
The samples are reminiscent of lace to be used with dresses of the 1920s or 1930s. There is frequent use of peach and light blue.
The samples associated with stock numbers 1678 and 1679 bear printed labels of "J. Fearfield, Ltd." with Fearfield stock numbers 6628 and 6629.
Sample 1816 still bears floats (lines of thread between elements of embroidery); such lines would have been cut before sale. Graphite rubbings are present in place of samples 1818 and 1824, the latter with note: "Patt. lent to Smi[be?], Sep. 3 /40."
Subject Terms:
Clothing and dress -- Great Britain.
Clothing trade -- Great Britain.
Dresses -- Great Britain.
J. Fearfield Ltd.
Lace and lace making -- Great Britain.
Lace industry -- Great Britain.
Textile fabrics -- Sample books.
Textile fabrics -- Specimens.
Sample books.
Textile materials.
Lace (needlework)
Machine lace.
Rubbings (visual works)
J. Fearfield Ltd.

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